New Shirt Designs for Kayak Anglers coming in 2013!

   I've begun creating new designs for kayak anglers in my Cafe Press store based upon their region. So far, I have 5 new font designs for the following 4 regions: British Kayak Anglers, Irish Kayak Anglers, Canadian Kayak Anglers, and one for my region here in the US, the New England Kayak Anglers.

   They're not designed to be clubs, but instead, can be used to show off that you're a proud kayak angler from the region that you fish out of. The shirts will also feature the highly popular & humorous "Gut Fish?" and the newly created, "Master Baiter" designs on the front, and a silhouette of a kayak angler on the back, with the country's region placed at the top of the silhouette, and the words, "Kayak Anglers" at the bottom underneath the silhouette. Some shirts will also feature a small kayak angler silhouette, or a euro-style decal design with regional letters: CKA, IKA, BKA, NEKA on the upper left chest pocket area.

   A new addition to the short sleeved T-shirt category is the new Men's Performance Moisture Wicking Shirt. This shirt is designed to be worn in high heat areas. It's available in Men's & Women's versions AND, it only comes in White.

   The big difference you will see this year, is the fact that there won't be any web addresses at the very bottom of the shirts. In the past, I had (and, still have) shirts and decals with web addresses linking to my personal outdoor journal (website). Since I don't have my website anymore, I want to promote my Google Blogger page, "Kayak Fishing Country" and my Facebook fan page for "CORE 860".  I need to include both web links on the decals in order to get recognition for both sites. I will still offer the web address for my Cafe Press store at the very top of the 3" x 10" decal.

   Keep an eye out for all new designs next year!

   My store: http://www.cafepress.com/core860_store/

Adding a Dual Red/Green Bow Light to your Kayak

   This is Part 2 of the "Adding a White Light to your Kayak" project. The kit mentioned in the previous project came with both a White LED Light (back/stern), and a Red/Green LED Light (front/bow). I made an adapter that mounts to my RAM mount under my Fishfinder. Since the dual color light came with the kit, I figured why not use it? I'd be happier knowing that I look like a small boat, rather than looking like a target out on the water.

   This kit by Attwood Marine, can be purchased at Wal-mart for $30, and intended to be used on smaller boats that didn't come equipped with navigational night lamps. 

* * * NOTE: Each state is different concerning lights on a small vessel, which is mandated by the US Coast Guard. For most of us, a single white light will do. Your decision to use this light is solely up to you. And, for those of you who will leave negative comments about this project, look at the packaging again, and take notice of the small jon boat (8-10 ft in length) pictured, noting that the angler is anchored with both the white light at the back and the dual red/green light up front. He sits no higher, or lower, than we do in our kayaks. Using the dual Red/Green lamp DOES NOT mean one has to be moving! * * *




    Parts List:
   ( 1 ) Attwood Portable Navigation LED Light Kit - $30
           Attwood Marine's Portable Navigation LED Light Kit

   ( 1 ) Piece of Aluminum Plate 1/8" thick x 6" length x 4" wide

   ( - ) Misc. Marine Grade Fasteners - (i.e. bolts, washers, nuts)


Here's how I did it:

1.) I used a piece of scrap diamond plate aluminum for this project.

You may want to use a piece of plate that is flat on both sides. Check with your local town garage for some scrap road signs that have been run over or mangled.

 2.) I used my RAM mount piece to trace out a rough design to incorporate the size of the piece that I need to use.

I marked out where I need to drill my holes.

 3.) Though it's not shown, I used a C-clamp to hold my RAM mount base in place so I could drill my mounting holes straight and keep them aligned perfectly.

 4.) With all the holes pre-drilled, I clamped down the plate so I can cut out the piece.

 5.) I used a Saw-Zall with a fine tooth metal cutting blade. Carefully, cut the out the design piece while keeping the saw's blade straight.

 6.) * Not shown: I used a Die Grinder to cut off the remaining piece behind the plastic fish finder mount.

I then used a 3M grinding wheel to remove the burrs from drilling the holes, the sharp edges from cutting out the plate, and rounded off the corners and edges.

I then mounted the parts in place.

 7a.) Shown from the left, with the unit on.

  7b.) Shown from right, with the unit on.

 8.) Shown mounted on my kayak, from the right, with the unit on. (yes, the kayak is upside down)

   Just a final note:  When this piece is mounted in place, you won't be able to open the forward hatch. But when you're sitting on the water in total darkness, you won't really have a reason to go up there anyway. I usually leave the RAM mount slightly loose, so I can turn the whole unit sideways, if I have to fetch something in the forward hatch, if I have to.

Adding a Orange Flag to your Lighted Safety Mast

   In a earlier post, I showed you a way to make an inexpensive lighted safety mast. This is yet another way to increase your safety out on the water - especially if your fish in the saltwater.

   While the lighted safety mast works great at night, this article will help increase your being more visible during the daytime hours, as well as being more visible at night.

   One way to do that, is to add a bright orange safety flag to your mast, to aid in being more visible during deep ocean swells, and motorized boaters from a distance.

   The club I fish with in Rhode Island highly recommends that a safety flag be used on ALL club outings.

   Starting with the Lighted Safety Mast that was featured in my last article, I will show you how to add a bright orange flag to your lighted mast.


   Parts List:

   ( 1 ) 18" x 18" Orange Vinyl-Coated Nylon Flags w/ Staffs ( 2 pk.) - $7.68/pr.
           2 pk of 18" x 18" Orange Safety Flags w/ Staffs

   ( 3 ) 3/32" x 2" long Machine Truss Fasteners - $1.18/ea. ( 4 pk. )
           4 pk of Machine Truss Fasteners

   ( 3 ) 3/32" Stop Wing Nuts - $1.18/ea. ( 6 pk. )
           # 8 Wing Nuts


   Depending on your skill level, this project shouldn't take longer than 30 minutes.

   Let's begin:

   1.)  You can find this "Safety Flag" in the safety section of a Home Depot store. It's approximately 18" x 18", a highly visible orange, and sells for under $20.

   * * * NOTE: The flag pictured was purchased at a different store, but the kit install is still the same.

   2.) Be sure to have the flag extended outward, and carefully mark 3 areas under the flag along the wooden dowel to drill your holes, making extra sure that the holes you intend to drill are centered correctly. Because the dowel is round, you may have make a "flat spot" on the dowel so your drill's bit doesn't wander while drilling the hole.

   3.) Using a 1/16" drill bit, carefully pre-drill your 3 holes straight through the center of the dowel as best you can. These will act as "guide" holes for the larger 3/32" drill bit after you're done with these.

   4.) Now, in the same 3 spots you used the small drill bit, use a 3/32" drill bit to enlarge the holes. Be careful not to drill the holes off center or the dowel may split and break.

   5.) Depending on your tools, I used small spring clamps to hold my flag's dowel firmly attached to the mast. Make sure the flag is below the top of the mast, otherwise at night, your safety light won't be seen with the flag in the way. You will need to drill through both the wooden dowel and the safety mast pole.

   6.)  I used 6 parts. I picked up ( 3 ) 3/32" x 2" long Machine Truss Fasteners and ( 3 ) Stop Wing Nuts. Push the ( 3 ) Machine Truss bolts through the safety mast and the safety flag staff. 

   7.) Attach all 3 bolts with the wing nuts.

   8.) This is what it should look like when it's done.

   * * * NOTE: This particular flag measured at 12" x 14". Because this flag doesn't show up in the Cabela's search, I substituted this flag for a larger 18" x 18" flag that can be purchased at Home Depot. The mast I used measured at 40" in length. Because the Home Depot safety flag is much larger, you may want to cut your mast to 50" in length, so that when the wind shifts in direction, the flag's bottom edge won't be slapping against the back of your head!

   

   This is the actual flag I made for a friend. She used it at Monahan's Pier in Narragansett, RI in August 2012. The swells got bigger as the weather slowly got uglier. It's nice to know you can now be seen with the added safety of a flag.

How to make your own Lighted Mast

   We all want to be seen out on the water. And that's a good thing. Just because some jerk got his boater's safety course certificate and passed, doesn't mean he rules the water. Whether you fish or paddle, freshwater or saltwater, you need to be seen out on the water so you don't become the next casualty.

   In this article, I will show you a way to make a good lighted mast. And, it won't cost you a bundle. I will include the price of the parts, where I bought the parts, the tools used, and how to assemble it.

   An excellent version out there is the Yak Attack VisiCarbon Pro. I have an older version with a orange safety flag that measures 10" x 12". The newer VisiCarbon Pro's orange safety flag now measures 4" x 12" - which makes it look more like a sock flapping in the wind. I think they're a little overpriced at $60 - $70.

   Adding a U.S. Coast Guard-approved White Light to your Safety Mast - For use on the ocean or saltwater ponds at night. Can also be used on freshwater lakes and ponds too.

   This new idea is not as much as some models out there.

   Parts List:
   ( 1 ) Attwood Marine Portable LED Navigation Light Kit - $30
           Attwood Marine Portable LED Navigation Light Kit
   ( 1 ) ¾" Inside Diameter PVC Drinking Water Pipe, cut to 50" length - $3.40
           1" dia. Drinking Water Pipe - cut to 50" length

   ( 1 ) Package of Reflective Safety Tape (2 Red /2 White) - $3.00 ea.

           Red & White Reflective Safety Tape

   ( 2 ) ½" long Arrow Fastener Aluminum Pop Rivets (50 pk.) - $6.00

           ½" long Aluminum Pop Rivets

   To install the pop rivets, you will need this tool:

   ( 1 ) Arrow Fastener Professional Rivet Tool

           Professional Rivet Tool

    This version is legal, and almost half the price of the Yak Attack version above.

    

   Let's begin:

   1.) For this project, you will need a 50" pipe with a ¾" inside diameter, and dress it up with Red & White Reflective Tape as shown below. 

   * * * NOTE: The purpose of adding the safety tape is simple. Some people can't see at night very well, so they opt to use a hand held spotlight to see where they're going. By having reflective tape on your kayak, lighted mast, and paddle, you'll stand out a lot better to avoid a collision.

   I bought a 2" x 6" pkg. of red / white reflective tape. I covered the top mast portion with one piece of 2" x 2½" red reflective tape first. Then, I used two 2" x 2½" pieces of White Reflective Tape, one on top of the other, to make a 4" wide section of White Reflective Tape. Then, I finished the bottom section with 2" x 2½" Red Reflective Tape. So, it looks like this:

   2.) I got this L.E.D. Navigational Light Kit from Wal-Mart for $30. 

It includes three 8" post sections that screw together, and some hardware.

We will need just the top post portion (the one with the grey clip at the end) for the white light.

   3.) Using the post with the plastic light attachment at the top, 

I'm going to drill two holes for the ( 2 ) rivets through the safety mast and the light post at the same time.

   To hold the inside post in place, I wedged a small flat head screwdriver down the inside pipe.

   4.) Using a 1/8" drill bit, drill two holes. Just drill the hole into the mast and the light post - but NOT all the way through.

   The first hole was drilled 1" from the top, then drill a second hole roughly 4" under the first hole.

   5.) Next, I used ( 2 ) pop rivets that were 1/8" in diameter, and about a 1/2" long.

   This is what it should look like so far.

   6.) Because this is a different size pipe, it won't fit properly in your # 241 Scotty mount. So, we are going to grind off a little bit at the bottom.

   This Scotty Mount is attached to the side of my gear crate: No. 241 Scotty Mount

   Using a grinding disc pad that I attached to my drill, grind off the last 2" from the bottom.

   7.) The finished product - without the flag. You may have to push and twist the mast into the # 241 Scotty Mount for a snug fit.

   The reason I chose this particular kit is because the CREE LED lamp lasts a lot longer and is a lot brighter than the other older incandescent lamp kits on the market.

   It also can be seen from over a mile away!


   * NOTE: Starting in 2016, the US Coast Guard & your local Conservation Enforcement Officers have been doing random "spot checks" on kayakers that fish at night. The first offense may get you a warning, but the second offense, may result in a steep fine. Do yourself a favor and make yourself a lighted mast with a orange (or, red) safety flag. The project costs less than $50 to make - considering YOUR life is worth a whole lot more!

Adding a Waterproof LED Light to your S.O.T. Hobie Kayak's Footwell

     While another season of dismal ofishing ends, I begin to add new ideas to my already modified kayak. This DIY project is perfect for the kayak ownel6r that ownllls an SOT kayak, or more commonly referred to as a "Sit-On-Top" kayak. The hull is essentially hollow and will allow you tewo pack extra gear on the inside.

     While fishing at night, I thought it would a nice idea to add a waterproof light that lights up the foot well area of my Hobie Mirage Outback kayak - without blinding myself in the process. So, I started searching online for waterproof LED lights, and came across a site called Oznium.com. They sell waterproof LED lights that are perfectly suited for this application because they don't take up a whole lot of room. And the one lamp I added is powered by a (8 cell) "AA" battery pack that will last up to 2000+ hours. Here's how I did it.

     Parts List

( 1 ) 8 cell "AA" Battery Holder - Radio Shack Part # 270-407

( 1 ) LED Dot Switch, Black,16mm - Oznium Part # 1-1841-600 (I chose the color Blue)

( 1 ) Flush Mount LED Bolt, Black,16mm, Cool White LED, No Lens - Oznium Part # 1-2225-600

( 1 ) Pkg. of 5 Heavy Duty 9V Snap Connectors - Radio Shack Part # 270-0324

( 1 ) 5/8" Spade Drill Bit

( 1 ) Pkg. of 1/8" Heat Shrink Tubing (Red) - Harbor Freight Part # 73441

( 1 ) Pkg. of 10 14-16 Gauge Watertight Heat Shrink Butt Connectors (Blue)

( 1 ) Pkg. of 10 18-22 Gauge Watertight Heat Shrink Butt Connectors (Red) 

     * Because I own a 2009 Hobie kayak, you may have to find a suitable spot to place your light so that it doesn't interfere with your vision at night. This light is incredibly bright with its CREE bulb. So, don't mount it facing towards you! I mounted mine inside the forward pocket, just in front of the center hatch.


      This is where I plan to install my LED lamp. Notice how I line it up to the center screw on my hatch.

     Be sure to remove the storage box inside the hatch area before drilling. Using a 5/8" Spade Drill Bit, drill a hole in the middle of that surface directly under the center screw - about 3/4" down.

     Remove the nut on the Flush Mount LED Bolt and run the wires through the hole.

     Photo 1:  To make extra sure that this light was watertight fully on the kayak's hull, I used a small dab of waterproof Tub & Tile Caulk Sealant. I rolled it into a small strand of caulk.

     Photo 2: Wrap it around the head of the lamp under the flanged part.

     Photo 3: After tightening the nut down on the lamp, remove any excess caulk.

 

     I chose a spot under my thigh, but next to the upper right of my center hatch. The switch sits roughly about the height of 1/8". You do not have to use caulk for this item - it already comes with a small rubber O-ring gasket.

 

     Now for the fun part - wiring the whole thing!  I used watertight connectors and heat shrunk the connections for that "professional installation" look. While Oznium did not provide a diagram to follow along to do the installation, I've included one for you. Oznium's Lamp and Lighted Switch wiring is about 3 feet long (more than enough for what we're about to do here).

     * * I would like to point out that the lighted relay switch wiring that Oznium provided has 3 wires (Red, Black, and Brown). While the wiring diagram has only 2 wires pictured below (Red and Black), I've included some good close up pictures for you to follow along to, making this install project a snap.

     Pulling the wires out of the kayak's hull, you will notice that the lighted relay switch has a third wire (Brown). This is so when the switch is activated, the Brown wire provides power to the Lamp on the bezel.

     Take the Black wire from the Lamp, and the Black wire from the Lighted Relay Switch, and strip off about a half inch off on the Black wires. Then, twist the two Black wires together. Cut a 1" piece of red 1/8" heat shrink tubing and slide it onto the Black wiring down to the end. Then, take a Blue Wiring Connector, slip it over the area where you twisted the two Black wires together, and crimp once near the Black wiring twist.

     * * * Use the Blue Connector because of the thickness of the two Black wires twisted together. 

     Take the Black wire from the Heavy Duty 9V Connector, cut a 1" piece of Red Heat Shrink Tubing and slide it down to the end of the connector. Then, strip off a half inch of Black wire from the 9V Connector, twist the wire, and insert the end into the Blue Wiring Connector. Crimp the end, and also the middle. Slide the 2 pieces of Red Heat Shrink Tubing up into the Blue Wiring Connector, as far as they will go. Use a Heat Gun to thoroughly melt the connections so they're tight.

     Repeat the same process for the Red Wire on the Lighted Relay Switch, and the Red Wire on the 9V Heavy Duty Connector. Use the Red Connector because of the thinner gauge wires for the Red.

     Next, cut two 1" pieces of 1/8" red Heat Shrink Tubing, and slide one piece on the Brown wire (from the relay switch), and the other over the Red wire (from the lamp). Repeat the same process as before.

     Don't forget to heat shrink the wire connections with a heat gun to ensure good watertight connections. 

     Be careful not the melt the connections too much, or it'll burn! 

     This is what the whole setup looks like when it's connected to the 8 "AA" Battery Pack Holder. To better protect your "12v power supply" from moisture, place it in a dry bag (such as the one it's pictured on).

     And this is what it looks like when it's completed!