Adding a Waterproof LED Light to your S.O.T. Hobie Kayak's Footwell

     While another season of dismal ofishing ends, I begin to add new ideas to my already modified kayak. This DIY project is perfect for the kayak ownel6r that ownllls an SOT kayak, or more commonly referred to as a "Sit-On-Top" kayak. The hull is essentially hollow and will allow you tewo pack extra gear on the inside.

     While fishing at night, I thought it would a nice idea to add a waterproof light that lights up the foot well area of my Hobie Mirage Outback kayak - without blinding myself in the process. So, I started searching online for waterproof LED lights, and came across a site called Oznium.com. They sell waterproof LED lights that are perfectly suited for this application because they don't take up a whole lot of room. And the one lamp I added is powered by a (8 cell) "AA" battery pack that will last up to 2000+ hours. Here's how I did it.

     Parts List

( 1 ) 8 cell "AA" Battery Holder - Radio Shack Part # 270-407

( 1 ) LED Dot Switch, Black,16mm - Oznium Part # 1-1841-600 (I chose the color Blue)

( 1 ) Flush Mount LED Bolt, Black,16mm, Cool White LED, No Lens - Oznium Part # 1-2225-600

( 1 ) Pkg. of 5 Heavy Duty 9V Snap Connectors - Radio Shack Part # 270-0324

( 1 ) 5/8" Spade Drill Bit

( 1 ) Pkg. of 1/8" Heat Shrink Tubing (Red) - Harbor Freight Part # 73441

( 1 ) Pkg. of 10 14-16 Gauge Watertight Heat Shrink Butt Connectors (Blue)

( 1 ) Pkg. of 10 18-22 Gauge Watertight Heat Shrink Butt Connectors (Red) 

     * Because I own a 2009 Hobie kayak, you may have to find a suitable spot to place your light so that it doesn't interfere with your vision at night. This light is incredibly bright with its CREE bulb. So, don't mount it facing towards you! I mounted mine inside the forward pocket, just in front of the center hatch.


      This is where I plan to install my LED lamp. Notice how I line it up to the center screw on my hatch.

     Be sure to remove the storage box inside the hatch area before drilling. Using a 5/8" Spade Drill Bit, drill a hole in the middle of that surface directly under the center screw - about 3/4" down.

     Remove the nut on the Flush Mount LED Bolt and run the wires through the hole.

     Photo 1:  To make extra sure that this light was watertight fully on the kayak's hull, I used a small dab of waterproof Tub & Tile Caulk Sealant. I rolled it into a small strand of caulk.

     Photo 2: Wrap it around the head of the lamp under the flanged part.

     Photo 3: After tightening the nut down on the lamp, remove any excess caulk.

 

     I chose a spot under my thigh, but next to the upper right of my center hatch. The switch sits roughly about the height of 1/8". You do not have to use caulk for this item - it already comes with a small rubber O-ring gasket.

 

     Now for the fun part - wiring the whole thing!  I used watertight connectors and heat shrunk the connections for that "professional installation" look. While Oznium did not provide a diagram to follow along to do the installation, I've included one for you. Oznium's Lamp and Lighted Switch wiring is about 3 feet long (more than enough for what we're about to do here).

     * * I would like to point out that the lighted relay switch wiring that Oznium provided has 3 wires (Red, Black, and Brown). While the wiring diagram has only 2 wires pictured below (Red and Black), I've included some good close up pictures for you to follow along to, making this install project a snap.

     Pulling the wires out of the kayak's hull, you will notice that the lighted relay switch has a third wire (Brown). This is so when the switch is activated, the Brown wire provides power to the Lamp on the bezel.

     Take the Black wire from the Lamp, and the Black wire from the Lighted Relay Switch, and strip off about a half inch off on the Black wires. Then, twist the two Black wires together. Cut a 1" piece of red 1/8" heat shrink tubing and slide it onto the Black wiring down to the end. Then, take a Blue Wiring Connector, slip it over the area where you twisted the two Black wires together, and crimp once near the Black wiring twist.

     * * * Use the Blue Connector because of the thickness of the two Black wires twisted together. 

     Take the Black wire from the Heavy Duty 9V Connector, cut a 1" piece of Red Heat Shrink Tubing and slide it down to the end of the connector. Then, strip off a half inch of Black wire from the 9V Connector, twist the wire, and insert the end into the Blue Wiring Connector. Crimp the end, and also the middle. Slide the 2 pieces of Red Heat Shrink Tubing up into the Blue Wiring Connector, as far as they will go. Use a Heat Gun to thoroughly melt the connections so they're tight.

     Repeat the same process for the Red Wire on the Lighted Relay Switch, and the Red Wire on the 9V Heavy Duty Connector. Use the Red Connector because of the thinner gauge wires for the Red.

     Next, cut two 1" pieces of 1/8" red Heat Shrink Tubing, and slide one piece on the Brown wire (from the relay switch), and the other over the Red wire (from the lamp). Repeat the same process as before.

     Don't forget to heat shrink the wire connections with a heat gun to ensure good watertight connections. 

     Be careful not the melt the connections too much, or it'll burn! 

     This is what the whole setup looks like when it's connected to the 8 "AA" Battery Pack Holder. To better protect your "12v power supply" from moisture, place it in a dry bag (such as the one it's pictured on).

     And this is what it looks like when it's completed!