And yet, Another "Firestorm" of Controversy

   On another site, that I frequent often, (YakAngler.com) because it seems I have started another firestorm of controversy over the use of "adding the red/green lights to a kayak" in the forum section.

   Just about every idea that I've added to the "Look What I Did" category has gotten a slew of negative comments. Not all of them were negative. There were some that gave positive comments, which I truly appreciate, I do. But to those that didn't, those guys need to leave the negative comments aside.  They claimed they weren't bashing my idea, but in actuality, they were. They were probably pissed because it took me about 2 days to come up with an idea of how to mount the bow lights to the kayak. Whereas, it would've taken them nearly a month!

   I am fully aware of what kind of lighting is needed for night time excursions on a kayak. But not everyone can afford the "popular" brand (Yak Attack) out there that's currently going for around $60-$70 for their lighted safety mast with flag. The older versions had a bigger flag that made it easier for other boaters to see you. Now, the newer version has what looks to be a blaze orange "sock" that they consider to be a flag.

   Anyways, it all started out with a way to make an affordable lighted safety mast for under $10 for use on small ponds and lakes that don't allow the use of gas powered motor boats on the water. That was it (or, so I thought). Of course, "Johnny Safety-for-All" had to be the first to leave a negative comment about what's considered to be the correct way to avoid accidents on the water. Clearly, the jerk didn't read the not-so-fine print where I stated, they can be used on bodies of water that don't allow the use of gas-powered boats. Let's be clear here, your chances of being run over by another kayaker on the water are slim, to none. I'm going to venture a guess here: I seriously doubt you will get injured, or maimed, by another kayaker on the water, seeing as how most kayaks don't have motors on them.

   In all fairness, I think it's because my profile doesn't show that I have 1000+ posts. It shows that I only have 30+ posts. So, everybody thinks I'm a rookie poster. But, here's the shocker, I've been boating since I was 12 yrs old. I'm 45 now, and have piloted the following boats/inflatables during my fishing outings: an old truck inner tube, a small Coleman 6 ft inflatable raft, a "Sears & Roebuck Co" 10 ft fiberglass Gamefisher row boat w/ a Mercury 7.5 hp outboard, a 16 ft "Sea Nymph" aluminum row boat w/ a 7.5 hp Mercury outboard, a 23 ft "Yellowfin" sportfishing boat with a 225 hpYamaha I/O, a 19 ft "Grady White" sportfishing boat with a 200 hp Suzuki I/O, and a 8 ft inflatable pontoon boat.

   Now, I have a Hobie Outback with the Mirage Drive system. A kayak that uses pedals to move through the water virtually hands-free without the use of a paddle - except when you need to go in reverse. That's about the only time I ever have to use the paddle, which spends most of its time strapped to the side of the kayak.

   After I got a ton of not-so-nice comments, I decided to look for a better way to be more visible on the water at night, but to do it for an affordable price - one that everybody can afford. I will eventually post those ideas on this blog, but that's for another time.

   Walking through Wal-Mart one day, I decided to take a walk down to the boating section to see what they offered for lighted masts. I saw the usual items that used the old incandescent lamps except for one that used the newer LED lamps and were powered by 3 "AAA" batteries in each unit - a Red/Green bow light and a White stern light. It was nicely priced at $30 for the kit. It also had a small boat pictured on the front of the package that couldn't have been no more than 8 ft long. The guy was sitting in the dark anchored with both the stern & bow lights on. I bought the kit and took it home to see what I could make out of it. I took pictures along the way while I was doing the project.

   When I finished the project, I posted the pictures on the forum site, and waited to see what kind of comments I would get. Of course, I got the usual "thumbs up" praise for creating an easy to do project for the DIYer that costs less than $35 to make. The breakdown: $30 for the kit, and $2.50 for a 40" piece of  ¾" inside diameter Drinking Water Pipe. Figure in the tax, and it comes out around $35 total.

   The best part was, that I mentioned that I don't like throwing out parts, that work perfectly fine, because I will find a way to incorporate the other part in a upcoming project. And yet, that one little bit of info, generated a firestorm of controversy as to whether it could be used on a kayak, or not. Everybody wants to be a know-it-all concerning safety at night, but this one little bit of info was like tossing a grenade into an outhouse. Talk about a poop storm!

   About 3 weeks ago, I did a second project by posting the second part to the "Adding a White Light to your Safety Mast" (first post), by adding "Adding a Red/Green Light to your Kayak" (second follow-up post), which ignited such a heated debate as to whether the bow light usage was legal on a kayak. One poster from Virgina had to be "Johnny Safety-for-All" and start off by saying, "...nice job, BUT....." and that's where the tirade began. It got so bad, that one of the site's administrators had to step in and call the guy out by noting, ".....that having the bow lights on a kayak is neither improper, nor illegal."

   Technically, there's no law, whether it be the state you live in, or federal law mandated by the US Coast Guard, that says you can't have the bow lights on a kayak. There aren't any height requirements either concerning how high the bow lights should be sitting on any vessel. Or, whether the said vessel in question, needs to be in motion.

   And, I think that's where the other kayak anglers are basing their concerns about the bow light usage being used on a kayak. Because, a large majority of us sit and fish in kayaks that are 15 ft or less in length, they feel as though they are "targets" out on the water because we sit so low to the water line. It's true that we technically don't need the bow lights on our kayaks, but I figured that since the kit came with the extra lamp, I thought I'd show everyone a way that would incorporate the lamp in a positive way on a kayak.

   Regardless of what the nay-sayers say, or think, I'm going to use them on my kayak anyway.

Here's what was said that sparked some explosive comments on YakAngler.com about my idea:

Forum member, landingcrew wrote:

"now why did i do all of this? its because if you get an enforcement officer either from local or federal side they may see you not within your prescribed rules and hit you with a ticket...and they are not cheap trust me the captain that has his boat next to the one i work on got hit for improper lights and it cost him a grip of money. best of luck to you but i am just trying to educate that is all. tight lines."

Site Administrator, YakSushi wrote:
I disagree with the above statement:

Reference: Title 33 CFR 83.25 Sailing vessels and vessels under oars.

83.25 - Sailing vessels underway and vessels under oars (Rule 25).

(a) Sailing vessels underway. A sailing vessel underway shall exhibit:

(1) Sidelights; and

(2) A stern light.

(2) A vessel under oars may exhibit the lights prescribed in this Rule for sailing vessels, but if she does not, she shall have ready at hand an electric torch or lighted lantern showing a white light which shall be exhibited in sufficient time to prevent collision.

The key phrase here is "A vessel under oars may exhibit the lights prescribed in this Rule for sailing vessels".

KayakFisher1967 is totally legal displaying the lights and if he were to get a ticket could easily dispute it as per the above Regulations.

Weather I agree with the lights or not it is by no means wrong of him to add them to his kayak and he can back this up with the above regulations.

It gets even better, with another heated follow-up post:

Forum member, landingcrew wrote:
"Recently I have noticed not only on yakangler but everywhere that people have come up with great ideas on how to be visible at night. for example; using blue, green, or red lights or a variation and/or flashing variation of them. Now these are all great ideas...BUT, they are all misleading and potentially could put others and yourself in danger. Let me explain;

I was told of a situation down in Louisiana of a kayaker that was out at night, he was using a blue light, he got into a situation; he hooked himself with a large hook and while trying to remove it lost his paddle. He tried to wave down passing vessels but they wouldn't stop. Now when he finally got close enough to yell at a vessel at anchor he got the help he needed. When asked why they didn't come to help him ealier, they noted that because he was waving his arm infront of the blue light they thought he was a law enforcement vessel. Why would they think that? Well, because blue is only to be used out on the water by law enforcement vessels!

Here is another; gentleman was out on his new boat, a motorized vessel, and was at anchor next to a narrow channel. A much larger vessel was moving down the very narrow channel at cruising speed as there was no wake restrictions. The gentlemen's vessel was very small, with a short freeboard, (think tracker bass boats) as the larger vessel passed, the large wake caused the smaller vessel to shift and subsequently sank due to the stern getting swamped, and sinking the vessel within a matter of seconds. After rescue the gentleman explained what happened to him, pride hurting obviously, he was asked what lights he was using while at anchor. He explained that he had an all around white light AND running lights on at the time. Now, the larger vessel's captain was found and questioned as well, he explained that he saw no vessels at anchor that night only one small vessel MAKING WAY. When he was told that that small vessel was at anchor and subsequently sank due to the wake his vessel had pushed out. the captain of the larger vessel stated that "If I would've known that the other vessel was at anchor I would've slowed to reduce my wake as a courtesy, I do it all of the time because people anchor so close to the channel, its not only common courtesy but for safety." No charges where brought up against the captain as the smaller vessel was using improper lights. The dual Red/Green lamps are for motorized machines.

Here are just a few examples of those that tried to become visible, and those that didn't know better and cost them pain of the flesh and pain in the wallet (i know if i sank my new boat i would be sleeping alone at night for the rest of my life).

 I am doing this to educate, so what does the coast guard say (i am going to break it down) what they told me this morning when i went to the coast guard station in Portsmouth, VA to clarify and to see what they would recommend, and of course, the Navigation petty officer had to do the spiel on what rule 25 states on vessels using oars as main propulsion, that they only need a directional white light shown in due time as to avoid a collision. now that's official, now here is whats cool, if you use a 360 white light, then theoretically you are using a directional light that just so happens to broadcast in all directions. if its left on then you are constantly showing in due time to avoid collision. now his thoughts on using running lights, he sees it as a danger, mainly because even the novice boater has some understanding that a white light means anchored vessel, and to slow down (even though we all know a-holes that don't care) but they will not slow down if they see the red and greens, there thinking (now this is for the newest/weekend boater) is that if they see those red and green lights that YOU have the ability to maneuver in ample time if there is an issue.

Okay, I have put a few terms that i will give the definitions for:

Underway - Any vessel that is not anchored, moored to a dock or land, or is aground.

Making way - Any vessel that is under power, such as: motor, sail or paddle.

Rules of Navigation - (rules of the road) otherwise known as COLREGS (International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea), International Navigational Rules Act of 1977, and THE Inland Navigation Rules Act of 1980. these rules are used WORLD WIDE, some countries use the international rules for there inland but many use the same inland rules as the states. oh and every state must adhere to these rules, they can not, can't, will not, illegally can't, change these rules for any reason. PERIOD!  All the same laws no matter where you go in inland waters or international waters.

I hope this clears up any questions out there.  Tight lines and stay safe!

   The same Administrator wrote back with another corrective post to "landingcrew's" above post:

Site Administrator, YakSushi wrote:
"Thanks for the info but this still doesn't address your statement about him getting a ticketed for having improper lights.

Now, you might think I'm just being a PITA (pain in the ass) about this, but calling out someone on the forums to say he is wrong, when according to the law, he is not, is bad information. I'm only arguing the facts. Again, I never said I agree, or disagree, with using the lights. Only that him using them, is not against the law."

   I fired back my own comment, to Landingcrew, as well as any others hoping to leave more negative comments, by saying this:

Forum member, KayakFisher1967 wrote:
"CLEARLY, someone didn't quite read the not-so-fine-print, where I stated that, "If you want to use them, you can. If NOT, then that's fine too."

If the above said lights were "Improper" or "Illegal", then the lamps are either broken, burnt out, or faulty wiring is the culprit. Regardless of who makes them, they will always be Red (Left)/Green (Right). See below:



   http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/category/lighting/navigation

The purpose of the Red/Green bow lights is to act as a stoplight when out on the water. It doesn't necessarily mean one HAS to be under power! If another boater wishes to pass in front of you from the right (green - starboard side), then I am to stand down and wait. After all, it's HIS red lamp that I'm seeing. If that said boater wishes to pass from the left (red - port side), then HE is to either stand down & wait, or I'm not moving, he may wish to pass by going behind me. Because it's MY red lamp that HE'S seeing.

As I stated in my post, you can either use it, or toss it. Here is CT, when boating at night on the ocean, if you want "run with the big boys", at least "dress like one". So says the USCG navigation manual for CT. In your state, it may be different. Though the coastal waters are federally mandated by the US Coast Guard, the USCG provides a manual for each state concerning its jurisdiction on the matter.

I will also state that a large percentage of boating accidents happen mainly during the day on the weekends. Any guy who spends his life savings on the boat of his dreams, will most likely avoid any run-ins with other boaters at all costs - regardless of size. And, since the majority of us are never far from shore (usually 1 mile or less), this really shouldn't be a problem. I've never personally heard of an marine patrol agent handing out a fat ticket for having the proper lighting on a kayak, canoe, or rowboat. But, I'd love to see it.

PS: I work in the Connecticut court system as a Judicial Marshal, so yeah, I do know what I'm talking about and have thoroughly done my homework."



   With that said, I gave the administrator a huge thank you, and mentioned that being a new poster on the site, I noticed that the comments were falling into the "cyber-bullying" category, but that I also stood my ground and finished by saying, "Regardless of what the nay-sayers say, or think, I'm going to use them on my kayak anyway."

   I will add, that I mostly troll the waters in search for Striped Bass, which would mean that I'm "Making way" (Any vessel that is under power, such as: motor, sail or paddle [kayak].), and by using the dual red/green lamp, I am absolutely correct in doing so, therefore I am, by all means, IN MOTION. End of discussion!
   

The Kayak Hoist - A good idea made better!

   I picked up a kayak hoist system for my garage so I could free up my sawhorses for other projects. While I was inspecting the parts, to make sure I had everything, I found that I had all the hardware ready to do the job.

   The kit costs $30 at Bass Pro Shops. You can get a kayak hoist system here:
http://www.basspro.com/Attwood-Kayak-and-Canoe-Hoist-System/product/11080210591717/

   I followed the directions exactly, but when it came to the installing the straps, I found out that the straps are NOT adjustable. So, I designed a better way to raise my kayak higher without the straps (which are useless). When you're done with new system, you should be able to get your car in the garage.

   This is how I did it.  Let's get started.

* * * NOTE: I designed this system to hold my Hobie Mirage Outback kayak which is 33" wide. Please measure the width of your kayak first to get the desired width in which you intend to use.

Parts you will need for this project:

( 2 ) 2" x 4" x 8 ft. long
( 2 ) 5/16" Lag Thread Screw Hooks
( 2 ) # 2 Screw Eyes (5/16" Lag Thread)
( 2 ) 7 ft. long Vinyl Covered Playground Chains
( 2 ) Double Framing Brackets
( 1 ) Box of 4" Deck Screws
( 1 ) Box of 1½" Wood Screws

1.) You will need ( 2 ) 2" x 4" at 8' long.

 2.)  Measure to 40" long and cut. You will need ( 2 ) pieces at 40" in length.

 3.) After you've made your cut, measure to 20" (halfway point) and mark. Make sure you're centered both length & width.

 4.) From the center, measure about 2½" to the left, and to the right. Mark those areas good.

 5.) This is what you should have: One mark at 17½" long, and the other mark at 22½" long.

6.) Flip the board over and make a mark at 1" from the outer edge. Also, making sure this mark is centered correctly.

 7.)  7.) Start drilling your holes using a 5/16" drill bit.

 8.) I chose Lag Thread Screw Hooks, because they're rated at 125 lbs each. You will need ( 4 ) of these.

9.)  Place ( 2 ) Eye Screw Hooks at the ends of each board.

10.)  Once you guide the screws in straight, use a wrench to thread the hook in the rest of the way, until the thread doesn't show anymore.

11.)  This is what the hooks should look like when you're done. A little bit of the screw's hook tip may show on the opposite side.

 12.) Flip the board over and drill the holes for the # 2 Eye Screws using a 5/16" drill bit. You will need ( 4 ) these.

 13.) These are the # 2 Screw Eyes I used. These are also rated for 125 lbs. and are 5/16" thick.

14.)  Use a wrench to tighten the screw eyes flush with the wood. When done, the screw eyes should be level side by side.

15.)  This is the finished product. Two hooks at the bottom edges, and two eye hooks in the middle facing forward.

16.)  This is a double framing bracket. You will need ( 2 ) of these to do one kayak lift. This bracket will be modified into fitting a single beam.

17.)  Bend 1 of the ends of the Double Framing Bracket out straight. You may want to hammer it out flat so it will lay down flush with the board's surface.

 18.) Depending on your garage's beam width, you will need ( 2 ) 2" x 6" x 15" long boards for a support surface, to be mounted above the rafters, for the modified framing bracket that will hold the new lift brackets in place. Use decking screws that are at least 4" in length. The framing bracket may need to be hammered into shape as seen in this photo.

    You will need a 2" x 4" x 72" long. Be sure to measure at least 22" away from any lighting equipment. Measure at least 1" away from the nearest beam. Secure all boards with 1½" wood screws.

19.)  This is what the new location will give you: clearance from the overhead lights to give you an additional 8" in height. Notice the height of the OLD bracket's location (Left) - compared to the NEW location (Right).

20.)  Place the lift hooks through the screw eyes on top. Next, take ( 2 ) Vinyl Covered Playground Chains ( 7' L) and hook up to the eye hooks.

I chose the chains with the vinyl, so as to protect the kayak's body from excessive scratching that regular chains might cause, and to prevent rust build up on the chain if you use your kayak on saltwater.

Next, lift the kayak as high as it will go. Notice that it doesn't interfere with the light or the garage door when raised.

This is what the finished project looks like:

1.) Clears the overhead light
2.) Clears the garage door
3.) Almost a full 6' off the ground!

* Notice the other kayak in the background and how much height you gain from this new idea. The blue kayak is almost flush with the ceiling, whereas the tan kayak is not.

21.) When you finish installing the kit, and hoisting your kayak as high as it will go, you should have enough room to fit your car in your garage.

   Now, your kayak is protected from the elements and is out of sight from curious thieves.

   If you have any questions about this article, feel free to email me.  - J

Adding a custom Gear Basket to your Kayak

     For those of you who are reading this, I'm Jeff, and I'm a fisherman that prefers to fish out of a kayak, hence the new sport called, "kayak fishing".  In the last few years, kayak fishing has exploded onto the scene, making it easier for people like myself, to get out and enjoy fishing through the use of a lightweight "boat" to get into areas that were impossible to get to.

     There are 3 kinds of kayaks on the market today: Sit-Inside, Sit On Top (SOT), and Inflatable.

     This article is for anyone wishing to add a "Gear Basket" to their SOT kayak. Just behind the seat is shallow space, called a "tank well", that can hold a myriad of accessories. Though, originally named after an area to store 1 or 2 scuba tanks, this area can be used to the kayak fisherman's (or, woman's) advantage by the addition of what I refer to often as a "gear basket". A gear basket is a small plastic crate that's used to hold assorted lures, plastic pliers, extra rod holders, and other necessities used for fishing and/or paddling.
   

     Depending on the size of your tank well, I will assume it's not very long, so we will use the standard size milk crates, measuring at 12" x 12".  To avoid getting arrested, buy your milk crate look-a-likes here: Farmplast Milk Crates

     1.) Let's start off with 3 milk crates. One will be used as the main basket, a second one will be used as the top portion of the mini basket, and the third one will be used as a top cover for the mini basket. (Shown below)

     2.) Take one basket and cut off the bottom. This will be used to make a mini basket for the main gear basket.  (Shown below)

     3.) I used a 3M Grinding Disc attached to a high speed drill to knock off the rough edge. When finished, it will leave the top nice and smooth. (Shown below)

     4.) Next, we'll use a second milk crate to form the lid for the mini gear basket. Be sure to cut above the edge at the bottom - as seen in the pic. (Shown below)

     5.) This is what the cover should like when finished. Using the same method as before, use the high speed drill with the 3M Grinding Disc to knock down the rough edge left by the saw.

     6.) Ok, now we're going to put them together. The main milk crate stands alone, then the mini gear basket goes on top of the main basket, and lastly, the lid goes on top of the mini gear basket. (Shown below)

     7.) Attaching the cover and the mini gear basket. For this trick, I used plastic automotive zip ties to act like hinges. Because I use my kayak mostly in saltwater, using plastic zip ties won't rust, and it's far easier to attach the whole thing. Don't be stingy. Use as many zip ties as you'd like. I've used as many as 10-12 zip ties when I build crates for someone. The reason being is, if a few of the ties break, there will be plenty more to keep the lid on. Tighten accordingly. You want the box and lid to open freely without snapping the zip ties from over tightening.

(Shown below)

     8.) Now, I'm going to show you how to keep your lure's hooks from getting stuck in the rungs of the basket by adding a sheet of acrylic to act as a liner. Measure 12" x 12" square. Use the small hand saw to cut out the sheet. Then peel off the protective covering. Place inside the basket's bottom. (Shown below)

This will fit the inside of the basket perfectly, and prevent anything from slipping through the openings.

     9.) To keep the sheeting from coming out, in case of  an unexpected roll over in the surf, I drilled two holes at each corner, attached a small zip tie, trimmed off the excess, and then pressed the clipped end into the basket's bottom. (Shown below)

     10.) Depending on how crazy you want to set up your custom made gear basket, you can add accessories to the outside to keep all your handy items nearby. The following pictures will show you where I added holsters for my Lip Gripper floating pliers, a mini holster for my needle nosed pliers, a Scotty mount for my Lighted Safety Mast, and a extra 3-rod holder in the back for more rods. 

(Shown below, Figs. A - F)

     A.) A one piece 3-rod holder for additional fishing poles. Use the large automotive zip ties to secure the rod holder to the milk crate. Trim off the ends with a razor.

     B.) A Scotty mount mounted in the center of the milk crate, just below the handle grip, for my Lighted Safety Mast w/ Flag. Use the large automotive zip ties to secure it. Again, trim off the ends with a razor.

     

     C.) Using a piece of 2" dia. x 5" long PVC pipe, I cut a notch out at the top right, 1" wide x 1.25" depth, and made a holster for my Lip Gripper pliers. I drilled holes through the back of the pipe by drilling through the inside of the basket. Use zip ties to attach it to the basket. Trim off the excess with a razor. 

     D.) Using a 3/4" inside dia. x 5" long piece of drinking water PVC pipe, I made a mini holster for my needle nosed pliers. 

     E.) I also added two mini bungee cords and secured those with mini zip ties. A added two small plastic cabinet knobs (Home Depot) to hold down the top cover, and the mini gear basket to the main basket. (the knobs are NOT shown, as this was my "prototype" basket)

     F.) The whole setup when it's finished. 

     * Note: The white tape that's shown on the mini gear basket's sides is silver Reflective Safety Tape. You'll be much easier to see at night if someone's using a high powered spotlight on you. 

     Another Example: Entering a unlit parking lot at night. 

Pic. 1: From the front. 

Pic. 2: From the back.

     How you decide to set up your gear basket, is entirely up to you. Everyone's tastes are different. This is my personal gear basket setup that's shown above - minus the safety mast. I have a taller safety mast with orange flag that's homemade by me. In my next article, I will show you how make your own Lighted Safety Mast for half the price of the more expensive brands out there.

     I hope you enjoyed my article. Come back soon for more tips & tricks. - J