The Kayak Hoist - A good idea made better!

   I picked up a kayak hoist system for my garage so I could free up my sawhorses for other projects. While I was inspecting the parts, to make sure I had everything, I found that I had all the hardware ready to do the job.

   The kit costs $30 at Bass Pro Shops. You can get a kayak hoist system here:
http://www.basspro.com/Attwood-Kayak-and-Canoe-Hoist-System/product/11080210591717/

   I followed the directions exactly, but when it came to the installing the straps, I found out that the straps are NOT adjustable. So, I designed a better way to raise my kayak higher without the straps (which are useless). When you're done with new system, you should be able to get your car in the garage.

   This is how I did it.  Let's get started.

* * * NOTE: I designed this system to hold my Hobie Mirage Outback kayak which is 33" wide. Please measure the width of your kayak first to get the desired width in which you intend to use.

Parts you will need for this project:

( 2 ) 2" x 4" x 8 ft. long
( 2 ) 5/16" Lag Thread Screw Hooks
( 2 ) # 2 Screw Eyes (5/16" Lag Thread)
( 2 ) 7 ft. long Vinyl Covered Playground Chains
( 2 ) Double Framing Brackets
( 1 ) Box of 4" Deck Screws
( 1 ) Box of 1½" Wood Screws

1.) You will need ( 2 ) 2" x 4" at 8' long.

 2.)  Measure to 40" long and cut. You will need ( 2 ) pieces at 40" in length.

 3.) After you've made your cut, measure to 20" (halfway point) and mark. Make sure you're centered both length & width.

 4.) From the center, measure about 2½" to the left, and to the right. Mark those areas good.

 5.) This is what you should have: One mark at 17½" long, and the other mark at 22½" long.

6.) Flip the board over and make a mark at 1" from the outer edge. Also, making sure this mark is centered correctly.

 7.)  7.) Start drilling your holes using a 5/16" drill bit.

 8.) I chose Lag Thread Screw Hooks, because they're rated at 125 lbs each. You will need ( 4 ) of these.

9.)  Place ( 2 ) Eye Screw Hooks at the ends of each board.

10.)  Once you guide the screws in straight, use a wrench to thread the hook in the rest of the way, until the thread doesn't show anymore.

11.)  This is what the hooks should look like when you're done. A little bit of the screw's hook tip may show on the opposite side.

 12.) Flip the board over and drill the holes for the # 2 Eye Screws using a 5/16" drill bit. You will need ( 4 ) these.

 13.) These are the # 2 Screw Eyes I used. These are also rated for 125 lbs. and are 5/16" thick.

14.)  Use a wrench to tighten the screw eyes flush with the wood. When done, the screw eyes should be level side by side.

15.)  This is the finished product. Two hooks at the bottom edges, and two eye hooks in the middle facing forward.

16.)  This is a double framing bracket. You will need ( 2 ) of these to do one kayak lift. This bracket will be modified into fitting a single beam.

17.)  Bend 1 of the ends of the Double Framing Bracket out straight. You may want to hammer it out flat so it will lay down flush with the board's surface.

 18.) Depending on your garage's beam width, you will need ( 2 ) 2" x 6" x 15" long boards for a support surface, to be mounted above the rafters, for the modified framing bracket that will hold the new lift brackets in place. Use decking screws that are at least 4" in length. The framing bracket may need to be hammered into shape as seen in this photo.

    You will need a 2" x 4" x 72" long. Be sure to measure at least 22" away from any lighting equipment. Measure at least 1" away from the nearest beam. Secure all boards with 1½" wood screws.

19.)  This is what the new location will give you: clearance from the overhead lights to give you an additional 8" in height. Notice the height of the OLD bracket's location (Left) - compared to the NEW location (Right).

20.)  Place the lift hooks through the screw eyes on top. Next, take ( 2 ) Vinyl Covered Playground Chains ( 7' L) and hook up to the eye hooks.

I chose the chains with the vinyl, so as to protect the kayak's body from excessive scratching that regular chains might cause, and to prevent rust build up on the chain if you use your kayak on saltwater.

Next, lift the kayak as high as it will go. Notice that it doesn't interfere with the light or the garage door when raised.

This is what the finished project looks like:

1.) Clears the overhead light
2.) Clears the garage door
3.) Almost a full 6' off the ground!

* Notice the other kayak in the background and how much height you gain from this new idea. The blue kayak is almost flush with the ceiling, whereas the tan kayak is not.

21.) When you finish installing the kit, and hoisting your kayak as high as it will go, you should have enough room to fit your car in your garage.

   Now, your kayak is protected from the elements and is out of sight from curious thieves.

   If you have any questions about this article, feel free to email me.  - J

Adding a custom Gear Basket to your Kayak

     For those of you who are reading this, I'm Jeff, and I'm a fisherman that prefers to fish out of a kayak, hence the new sport called, "kayak fishing".  In the last few years, kayak fishing has exploded onto the scene, making it easier for people like myself, to get out and enjoy fishing through the use of a lightweight "boat" to get into areas that were impossible to get to.

     There are 3 kinds of kayaks on the market today: Sit-Inside, Sit On Top (SOT), and Inflatable.

     This article is for anyone wishing to add a "Gear Basket" to their SOT kayak. Just behind the seat is shallow space, called a "tank well", that can hold a myriad of accessories. Though, originally named after an area to store 1 or 2 scuba tanks, this area can be used to the kayak fisherman's (or, woman's) advantage by the addition of what I refer to often as a "gear basket". A gear basket is a small plastic crate that's used to hold assorted lures, plastic pliers, extra rod holders, and other necessities used for fishing and/or paddling.
   

     Depending on the size of your tank well, I will assume it's not very long, so we will use the standard size milk crates, measuring at 12" x 12".  To avoid getting arrested, buy your milk crate look-a-likes here: Farmplast Milk Crates

     1.) Let's start off with 3 milk crates. One will be used as the main basket, a second one will be used as the top portion of the mini basket, and the third one will be used as a top cover for the mini basket. (Shown below)

     2.) Take one basket and cut off the bottom. This will be used to make a mini basket for the main gear basket.  (Shown below)

     3.) I used a 3M Grinding Disc attached to a high speed drill to knock off the rough edge. When finished, it will leave the top nice and smooth. (Shown below)

     4.) Next, we'll use a second milk crate to form the lid for the mini gear basket. Be sure to cut above the edge at the bottom - as seen in the pic. (Shown below)

     5.) This is what the cover should like when finished. Using the same method as before, use the high speed drill with the 3M Grinding Disc to knock down the rough edge left by the saw.

     6.) Ok, now we're going to put them together. The main milk crate stands alone, then the mini gear basket goes on top of the main basket, and lastly, the lid goes on top of the mini gear basket. (Shown below)

     7.) Attaching the cover and the mini gear basket. For this trick, I used plastic automotive zip ties to act like hinges. Because I use my kayak mostly in saltwater, using plastic zip ties won't rust, and it's far easier to attach the whole thing. Don't be stingy. Use as many zip ties as you'd like. I've used as many as 10-12 zip ties when I build crates for someone. The reason being is, if a few of the ties break, there will be plenty more to keep the lid on. Tighten accordingly. You want the box and lid to open freely without snapping the zip ties from over tightening.

(Shown below)

     8.) Now, I'm going to show you how to keep your lure's hooks from getting stuck in the rungs of the basket by adding a sheet of acrylic to act as a liner. Measure 12" x 12" square. Use the small hand saw to cut out the sheet. Then peel off the protective covering. Place inside the basket's bottom. (Shown below)

This will fit the inside of the basket perfectly, and prevent anything from slipping through the openings.

     9.) To keep the sheeting from coming out, in case of  an unexpected roll over in the surf, I drilled two holes at each corner, attached a small zip tie, trimmed off the excess, and then pressed the clipped end into the basket's bottom. (Shown below)

     10.) Depending on how crazy you want to set up your custom made gear basket, you can add accessories to the outside to keep all your handy items nearby. The following pictures will show you where I added holsters for my Lip Gripper floating pliers, a mini holster for my needle nosed pliers, a Scotty mount for my Lighted Safety Mast, and a extra 3-rod holder in the back for more rods. 

(Shown below, Figs. A - F)

     A.) A one piece 3-rod holder for additional fishing poles. Use the large automotive zip ties to secure the rod holder to the milk crate. Trim off the ends with a razor.

     B.) A Scotty mount mounted in the center of the milk crate, just below the handle grip, for my Lighted Safety Mast w/ Flag. Use the large automotive zip ties to secure it. Again, trim off the ends with a razor.

     

     C.) Using a piece of 2" dia. x 5" long PVC pipe, I cut a notch out at the top right, 1" wide x 1.25" depth, and made a holster for my Lip Gripper pliers. I drilled holes through the back of the pipe by drilling through the inside of the basket. Use zip ties to attach it to the basket. Trim off the excess with a razor. 

     D.) Using a 3/4" inside dia. x 5" long piece of drinking water PVC pipe, I made a mini holster for my needle nosed pliers. 

     E.) I also added two mini bungee cords and secured those with mini zip ties. A added two small plastic cabinet knobs (Home Depot) to hold down the top cover, and the mini gear basket to the main basket. (the knobs are NOT shown, as this was my "prototype" basket)

     F.) The whole setup when it's finished. 

     * Note: The white tape that's shown on the mini gear basket's sides is silver Reflective Safety Tape. You'll be much easier to see at night if someone's using a high powered spotlight on you. 

     Another Example: Entering a unlit parking lot at night. 

Pic. 1: From the front. 

Pic. 2: From the back.

     How you decide to set up your gear basket, is entirely up to you. Everyone's tastes are different. This is my personal gear basket setup that's shown above - minus the safety mast. I have a taller safety mast with orange flag that's homemade by me. In my next article, I will show you how make your own Lighted Safety Mast for half the price of the more expensive brands out there.

     I hope you enjoyed my article. Come back soon for more tips & tricks. - J